To Portomarin

Left the albergue somewhat early this morning as we always do when we stay in one of these.  The night before the pilgrim in the bed below John asked us both at different times when we would be leaving in the morning.  He explained that he had been invited to breakfast at 8 so he would enjoy sleeping in a little.  I wanted to ask him if he was kidding right? You are in a dorm and trying to control others leaving time? Good luck with that! This from a guy who had told us he had walked the Camino before.  John sarcastically told him he would be rustling his potato chip bag around 7.  Evidently not liking that answer, he asked me and I told him I didn't know when we would be leaving and just dumbly nodded and walked away when he told me of his breakfast plans.  On the Camino in the afternoons you can always claim your mind is a bit addled from all the walking.  I've used this on a few occasions.

We left in the dark, torches attached to our foreheads, with a crowd not seen since we left St. Jean so long ago.  This week promises to be interesting.  We stopped immediately for a coffee and big piece of almond coffee cake that was so moist and good.  After walking for miles we stopped again at a cafe for a tortilla (basically an omelet).  I asked the young 20 something girl for queso AND Jamon but she just looked at me with a really bored look and would not deviate from the menu so I had to choose one or the other. Ok, Jamon.  Another coffee and we were good to go.

We came to a huge bridge that we had to cross over to get to the other side of the river Mino that is the result of a dam built in1962. It covers the remnants of an ancient village that can be seen at this time of year when the river is low.  We walked the steep medieval staircase from Roman times, up to the town of Portomarin.

Found the Hotel Jardin and got a pretty basic room for 45 euro but with private bath. It's amazing what this Camino has taught us we can appreciate.  We can do with so much less.  I've been living for a month and a half with three outfits and soap that serves to wash the hair, body and my clothes. And everything I need in one small backpack and it hasn't killed me yet!  I think I was born of good stock or something like that.

We stopped for a wine before dinner and as John was at the bar ordering, I looked out the door and saw the Ozzie twins, Pat and Sue! I was so excited! It had been a week since we'd lost track of them at Villar de Mazarife.  We hugged and they joined us as we caught up with everything that had been happening with each of us since.  We also shared our aches and pains and doubts and how we are faring or not emotionally.  It was good to hear that others are going through some of the same things.

Dinner that night was another pilgrims menu with bean soup, spaghetti, ribs for me and a chicken breast (finally) for John.  Top this off with desert and it was all one of the better meals.

We are anxious and feeling the bittersweet closeness to the end that we are at this point. Only a short 57 miles.  We have walked and carried our backpacks on every step of this way. We feel so blessed not to have had any major physical complications like we have seen in so many before us.  We are in awe of our brothers and sisters on this journey. They have compelled us to go forward unbeknownst to them.

We have made the decision to make Santiago by the 15th, God willing.  This is the last day to receive an official blessing and while that doesn't matter because we know Where we are officially blessed, it still would be nice to hear our names called out during the mass for pilgrims in Santiago. This we hope to give to ourselves. John will be wearing his sunglasses. I will just be letting the tears flow down my face like I am now just thinking about it.