Since we were all sleeping together, we all got up together. Well most of us anyway. Some get up early but they turn on the lights at around 7am in order to kick you out and get you on your way.
We met in the bar for cafe con leches and toast and jam. We would walk most of the day with our friends johncasey, Brett and Barb. John and I were only planning to walk 14k today to a small place called Olveiroa. The others were planning to push on to Cee. That would have been a 32k day and we were just not willing. I was so glad john was on the same page with me.
We had such fun walking and talking and laughing, acting silly and goofy, putting on the ponchos for the occasional downpour that never lasted too long. This was probably brought on by walking about 7k out of our way in the rain to walk close to some of those huge wind turbines that dot the landscape of Spain. We stopped and shared snacks in front of an old cemetery. What a great time.
As we arrived in Olveiroa everyone stopped for refreshments and Barb received a call that her father had gone into the hospital with a possible heart attack. Johncasey being the EMT firefighter that he is, calmed her fears as best he could. They would go on to the next stop and call for a taxi forward. We said our goodbyes, wished he best for Barbs dad and checked into our small pensione. After showering and retreating to the bar, ordering two glasses of vino tinto, the waiter pointed at the glasses and said 2 euro, as in one euro per glass. Pretty typical as we have learned. Then she pointed to the bottle she had just poured from and with a smile said 3 euro. WHAT??? Ok twist our arms, give us the bottle! Another very good dinner and off to bed.
There are of course no pictures of this day due to the ipad being locked away and dry.
We listened to the rain fall and the wind buffet the building we were sleeping in all night long. This was getting so old! Sure enough, getting up the next morning, I knew this was going to be a hellacious day. While it wasn't exactly raining when we left, it soon would prove to be one of the worst days of severe weather conditions I have ever found myself in. And walking no less with absolutely no place to retreat to!
After walking 6k, we came upon a small cafe where the lady told us there would be nothing else for 15ks. We ordered a bocadillo with egg, cheese and tomatoes. I don't know why we didn't eat it there and then because I knew in the back of my mind there would be no picnic today. The reason would be revealed later that day......
No sooner than we took off into the wilderness did the wind pick up and I mean pick up. I don't know how many knots or mph it was blowing but blow it did. Add to that sideways pelting rain that would not relent for what would be the rest of that days walk. There were times I cried out being so scared that I would be blown off my feet. I had to dig down with my walking sticks, stop and steady myself more than a few times. If there were any other pilgrims on the way with us they'd have thought I was drunk...maybe not, they'd be in the same predicament. I was afraid of debris that could be flying around such as trees and the like. John as always was walking ahead of me....but not too far. He would look around at me every so often to make sure I was still there. This was every man for himself type stuff.
I kept thinking of the bible story of Jesus in the boat on the ocean with his disciples and the ocean pounding their small fishing boats and the doubt and fear that set in. It reminded me to just trust and have faith that this would all be ok. We would be ok. I knew somehow that we would, but the world I found myself in was not exhibiting that at the moment. There was nothing to do but go into survival mode and put my head down and watch my steps putting one foot in front of the other on that rocky water swollen path, the rain hiding my tears.
After figuring out that crying was not going to help, I found myself having another Forrest Gump moment. I remembered the scene when the legless and angry Lieutenant Dan was in the crows nest on the shrimp boat during a hurricane, shaking his fist at God. I stopped and shook my fist and screamed out as loud as I could, above the blasting rain and wind, what were to be the first words John had heard out of me in hours. "IS THIS ALL YOUVE GOT?" And other expletives. John had no idea I was just being an idiot and quoting from the movie when at that moment the wind and rain blasted us even worse than it had before! I learned later that John didn't know whether to think I was the most courageous person he had ever known in that moment or the stupidest and would I please just shut the hell up what did I think I was doing screaming at God like that? I think God had a pretty good laugh. I know I did.
We finally made it down off the mountain ridge and started to descend, knowing we would be seeing the ocean soon. And see the beautiful sea, we did. It motivated us to keep going. We came to the gritty seaport town of Cee. Maybe it wasn't gritty but with all the rain and wet it sure felt that way to me. We ended up losing the yellow arrows for the first time this entire journey. We walked in circles in the pouring rain for an hour. Once we asked a couple of people to point us in the right direction we found ourselves in the even smaller town of Corcubion. We mistakenly thought here would be plenty of accommodation choices here which there were not. Remember we had just come through an entire day of hell and no food, the bocadillo still tucked away in John's backpack. Sorry for yelling at you like that earlier, God. After wandering around in that town in a straight downpour for an hour we went back to the only pension we saw. They had a room. I was never so thankful for that room and that bocadillo in my life. There was no way to go back out and try to find something to eat. John did think it worth it to go out and get wine. You gotta do what you gotta do.
By now I had had it! I meant it this time. I am getting a taxi tomorrow even though we are getting to Finnesterre tomorrow. I'm just not doing this any more. I quit! Good night.
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