I forgot to mention that yesterday we met John Brierly who wrote the guide book we are all following in many different languages. Many would think that was a really big deal and want to get pictures and at least have him autograph their guide books. We had been hearing the rumours that he was on the way for many days. We finally saw him at breakfast and made his and his wife Jill's acquaintance. They were very nice people. Some say he is changing the Camino. I say he already has. For the better perhaps.
"I had walked the equivalent of one day for each year Christ spent on earth. Here I was on the 33rd day but I could find no joy on this hill amongst the crowd of pilgrims huddled against the driving rain....as I entered the cathedral I realized I had failed in my purpose. But in that same instant I realized I had been searching in the wrong place. A sudden rush of joy enveloped my soaking body. I knew the answer lay where the world of things ended and the unseen world began and I knew I had to go there. Not tomorrow, but now. I hurried down the steps and out the city gate. I was alone but I had company. I did not know where I was going but I felt completely guided......" ~John Brieley
Today we started out early with Greg and Melody and the twins as agreed upon at about 7am from our different respective lodgings. We found a great little cafe that served excellent coffee and donuts, our sustenance for the morning. It is always amazing walking in the dark every morning with the headlamps burning. We knew we were doing another 25 k day so we set our minds on it all supporting one another. And it worked. It was so nice walking and talking with these people and having the time go so fast.
We stopped halfway at a town called Melide and had plates of pulpo (octopus) that were delicious and fresh along with roasted peppers and the best wine in the region. What better fortification could you want and need for the next 10k?
At the same time our little group were sharing that we thought the pilgrims who have started from St. Jean are not so quick to want to start conversation with new people as are the ones who have a started so recently. Already we are separating ourselves out. Your shoes are shinyer than mine. You walk with more energy than I. You did not walk as far as I did. Can we make it a practice not to make these judgements or are we so habituated to want to be more special than the other? To separate ourselves out.....Can we not allow the other to have his own experience without comparing it to ours and judging it?
We walked into the small town of Ribadiso, our destination for the day, and stopped at the cafe to decide at which albergue of two we would stay. The one we chose was mere steps away and very modern with all the conveniences. So modern that the unisex bathrooms had opaque shower doors. We opted for the more private one on the other end of the dorm room. I'm not sure who thinks up what would make pilgrims more comfortable but then again I'm not sure that is the point.
We got the shower out of the way, had a lovely dinner and then spent the night in the bunk next to the biggest snorer in he room, a lovely Canadian woman we had made acquaintance with earlier.
It's hard for me to believe that we are two days from finishing this Camino in the real sense. I know I will be living it for quite some time to come.
Cayce, I guess it's human nature to judge others, but the Camino is so individual and personal. I only walked 111k, but had a "life" experience that I will always remember. Part of my reward was spending an extra day in Santiago. More time at the cathedral, hanging out, watching the pilgrims arrive, talking to them about their experience. It's a joy to watch the finish. Buen Camino!
ReplyDeleteI can hardly believe you are almost done. My feet hurt listening but my memories of living overseas come flooding back. I hope, too, that you spend some time in Santiago rejoicing over this. Just think, we had hoped to meet you today or tomorrow… aren't you glad me made the decision to pass? Enjoy the moments and take lots of pictures. You and John are so strong. You are my heros!!
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