Left the truck stop after a coffee and chocolate stuffed pastry in the dark misty fog.
"Bucolic" has now given way to "pastoral". We will climb up about 600 meters in 9k into Galicia. The little towns we passed were like nothing I have ever experienced. They are a reminder of times past with fruit trees, mainly apple and chestnut heavily laden. Gardens bursting with the season's last. In the town of Las Herrerias we came upon our friends Maggie and Anna who decided to climb up into Galicia on the backs of some local horses. Of course there was a service for this. I passed them tied to their posts, I was thinking how fun that would be. A little later as they passed me so closely on the road, with my sticks clicking to the beat of their shoes clopping along, we eyed each other and I physically related to those horses as beasts of burden very much.
We really climbed and both John and I finally felt in our element. Some people skip this section because they are afraid of the steep incline. I actually enjoy it more than the flat walking. Maybe just reminds me of home. We stopped to share an orange and along comes the guy from a few days before who lost his hat! He was so happy that John had held onto it for him. We made our acquaintance with young Antoine, a geologist from Paris.
After only 8 miles or so we came to the beautiful mountain top village of O'Cebreiro. 360 degree views all around and no fog in sight. After picnicking on our bocadillos of shredded pork from the night before, we saw our friends Ken and Elise having a glass of wine with Linda. Our young German friend was still nursing her blister and bussing forward each day to give her foot a break and keep up with the schedule at the same time. We asked at the little hotel and there was one room left. It was the most wonderful room we have had this whole trip. Dark woods, high beamed ceilings and stone walls. Just gorgeous. I was very happy.
We joined our friends and shared a wonderful pilgrims meal that included the caldo Gallego soup that I have been eating every night and a beef stew that turned out to be ribs. Dinner is always a surprise. While I am in Galicia I will try the pulpo (octopus) that is a specialty here.
The days grow shorter and John's beard grows longer.......
Remember what "Jack" also said, "make each day count" lol!
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